Today we’re celebrating St. Frances of Rome (click here for her fascinating story), so for dinner I’ve made a chicken dish which dates back to the Middle Ages. Since St. Frances was a good home manager I could imagine her directing the servants to pound the nuts and grind the spices and chop up the herbs for her. We have our modern appliances to help us with this, but if you don’t have a food processor or blender, I’ve provided ideas for substitutions below.
Nut sauces can be found in many different cuisines: Spain’s romesco, Syria’s muhammara, Mexico’s mole. Through all of these there seems to be a common thread running which food historian Rachel Laudan discusses here. Italian pesto is more an herb sauce than a nut sauce, so this particular Medieval almond sauce with its accompanying spices seems to be a marriage between ancient Rome’s moretum and the Islamic-influenced nut sauce. (I am an amateur food historian and would welcome any corrections on this.)
So, without further ado, the recipe, adapted from Redon, Sabban and Serventi’s The Medieval Kitchen.
1 whole chicken, cut into parts (cut yourself (here’s how), or buy already cut pieces)
olive oil for frying
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup almonds
handful flat-leaf parsley
handful dill
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon ground ginger
pinch saffron threads
Heat olive oil in large skillet (I use a 12″ cast iron) over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking.
Arrange chicken pieces in skillet, leaving space in between so they brown properly. Do this in batches if necessary.
Brown 4 minutes or so, until golden. Turn pieces carefully, browning the other side, 4 minutes more.
After all pieces are browned (return everything to the pan if you did this in batches), add 1 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then immediately lower heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, covered, approximately 35 minutes or until tender but not falling apart.
While chicken is cooking, process almonds and herbs in food processor or blender until smooth.
Grind peppercorns in coffee or spice grinder, or with the use of mortar and pestle. Combine with cinnamon, ginger, and saffron and set aside.
Remove chicken pieces to platter when they are done. Keep warm in low oven, covered loosely with foil.
Add cooking liquid to almond mixture in blender and process until smooth, adjusting seasonings with salt and pepper.
Return almond mixture to pan and continue cooking over medium heat, stirring frequently until reduced to a thick sauce. Add chicken pieces to sauce to coat lightly and heat a few minutes more before serving. Alternatively, arrange chicken pieces in platter and serve sauce on the side. Sprinkle with spice mixture.
Suggested substitutions for the sauce:
– store-bought pesto, with or without finely chopped fresh dill mixed in
– almond butter mixed with chopped herbs
– almond flour mixed with store bought pesto
Prayer for St. Frances’ intercession, from Catholic Culture:
O God, who have given us in Saint Frances of Rome a singular model of both married and monastic life, grant us perseverance in your service, that in every circumstance of life we may see and follow you. Through our Lord Jesus Christ, your Son, who lives and reigns with you in the unity of the Holy Spirit, one God, for ever and ever.
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